The waves are formed initially by a complex process of resonance and shearing action, in which waves of differing wave height, length, period are produced and travel in various directions. Ocean waves are mainly generated by the action of wind on water. It should be noted that this article has been abstracted from the text book “Coastal Engineering: Processes, Theory and Design Practice” 2nd edn (2012) and 3rd edn (in press), with the permission of Spon Press.įigure 1. The interested reader should consult the references provided for further details.
Some results are quoted without derivation, as the derivations are often long and complex. The following sections describe some aspects of wave theory of particular application in coastal engineering. The first section provides a descriptive overview of the generation of wind waves, their characteristics, the processes which control their movement and transformation. This article explains some theories of periodic progressive waves and their interaction with shorelines and coastal structures. 7.5 Radiation Stress Components for Oblique Waves.7.1 A General Description of the Surf Zone.4.12 Combined refraction and diffraction.4.5 Shoaling and refraction of directional wave spectra.4 Wave transformation and attenuation processes.3.6 Group velocity and energy propagation.3.5 The influence of water depth on wave characteristics.3.4 Pressure variation induced by wave motion.
0 kommentar(er)
